Sunday, December 7, 2014

Day 7: Greek Almond Stars

IMG_5186This is a recipe I’ve wanted to try for a long time, and I’m glad I finally did! These almond stars, flavoured with brandy and vanilla, are among the prettiest cookies I’ve ever baked! They are very tasty and easy to make.

The original recipe is from Rena Salaman’s The Greek Cook. I had to change the measures a bit - especially the amounts of sugar and flour. Here’s my version:

For the dough you need

  • 225g butter

  • 125g sugar

  • 8g vanilla sugar

  • 2 egg yolks

  • 3 Tbsp brandy

  • 1/2 tsp baking soda

  • 160g ground almonds

  • 350g all-purposed flour

  • a pinch of salt (only if using unsalted butter)

  • plus about 100g confectioner’s sugar for dusting.


Set the oven to 175C. Combine softened butter, vanilla sugar, and sugar in a baking bowl. Stir with a wooden spoon or spatula until creamy and white, then add the egg yolks and stir until well combined. Add the brandy in which you have dissolved the baking soda. Lastly, add almonds and flour and work the dough with your hands until you can form it into a ball.

Roll the dough about 1cm thick (the original recipe suggested 2,5cm but for me it was just too much and my cookie cutter is only a bit less than 2cm deep…). Use a cookie cutter to cut small stars. Bake the cookies until they almost start to get some colour - be careful, they burn very easily!

Once out of the oven, sprinkle some confectioner’s sugar on top. Take a big plate and sprinkle its surface with confectioner’s sugar, too. Let the cookies cool a few minutes, then transfer them on the plate and dust them with more confectioner’s sugar so that they are totally white.

Serve your stars with a cup of strong coffee!

Saturday, December 6, 2014

Day 6: Panettone

IMG_5159My first contact with panettone was back in 1996 when I was interrailing in southern Europe during the Christmas holidays. In Italy, I bought a huge panettone to take home with me and tied it to my tiny backpack, to the amusement of many co-travelers. But it certainly was worth the trouble!

Ever since, I’ve been a regular user of those mouth-watering Italian Christmas cakes. About two years ago, I realized that it would theoretically be possible to bake one at home, but I still didn’t dare trying it myself. “It’s just too complicated, it’s better to buy one”, advised even the owners of an Italian restaurant back in Germany.

I decided that this year it was time to make my own perfect panettone. Not a "fake one" like I’ baked before - sweet bread with the same flavours as panettone – but a real one.

And judging by everything else but the taste, I’ve managed it this time. (I’ll only be able to taste my panettone tomorrow, but I’ll let you know how it was as soon as we’ve had breakfast!)

The recipe I used is based on this Italian recipe. My Italian is far from being perfect, and I understood roughly half of what I read. I even tried Google translating it into Finnish – which only resulted in the best laugh I’ve had in a long, long time. (It seems that the machine translation has only developed in quantity, not in quality since the time I was studying :) )

This is what you need for 1 big panettone (about 1300g) or two small ones (about 650g):

For the first dough:

  • 60g very stiff sourdough starter, refreshed three times with the same flour you’re going to use for your panettone

  • 1g fresh yeast, dissolved in 90ml water

  • 75g sugar

  • 70g egg yolks

  • 240g flour (I used a mixture of Italian flour type 00 and all-purpose flour)

  • 85g butter


 

For the second dough:

  • all of the first dough

  • 40ml water

  • 80g egg yolks

  • 2 Tbsp sugar

  • 2 Tbsp orange syrup (from the homemade candied orange peel)

  • aromatic butter - made with 90g butter, melted the previous day together with 1 Tbsp honey, 1 vanilla pod, and the grated zest of 1 organic lemon and 1 organic orange, then stored in a cool place

  • 120g raisins

  • 60g homemade dried orange peels, in small cubes

  • 2g salt (4 if using unsalted butter)

  • about 200g flour (the original recipe said 60g, but I needed a lot more)


First of all, you need to make sure your sourdough starter is ready for the job! Refresh it on the first day three times, first at about 7AM, then at noon, and still at 4PM or so. Use the same flour as you are going to use for the panettone – special panettone flour seems to be available, but not here, so I used a mixture of all-purpose flour and Italian flour type 00. Make sure that your starter at least doubles in size between the feedings. The original recipe said it should triple – mine the most certainly didn’t; then again, I couldn’t control the temperature – it should have been 28-30C, and even in the warmest and most draft free spot in my kitchen, the temperature must not have been more than 25C. The starter should also be stiffer than usual - for 100g of starter, I used 100g flour and 40ml of water for the first feeding, then 100g flour and 70-80ml of water for the second and the third one.

During the first day, prepare the candied orange peels (use this recipe, only cut the peels into small cubes, instead of long stripes) and the aromatic butter for the second dough.

At about 7 or 8 PM, prepare the first dough. Combine all ingredients of the first dough in a baking bowl and knead about 10-15 minutes (I don’t have any kitchen machine, so I knead by hand). Then cover the dough with a damp kitchen towel and place in a warm and draft free place and let ferment overnight.

In the morning, check that the dough has at least doubled in volume. (If it hasn’t, too bad – my guess is that you’ll have to start all over again!) Mine had, so I proceeded to the second dough.

2014-12-06 07.31.14

Add all the ingredients of the second dough into the first dough (remember to remove the vanilla pod from the aromatic butter!) and knead again about 10-15 minutes. Let the dough rest about 1 hour in a warmish place (about 25C). In the meantime, prepare your panettone papers: I didn’t have any, so I looked for instructions for making my own. This is what I used to make mine, and it worked well! Thank you, Chef in disguise!

Then place the panettone in the panettone paper. Cover with a damp kitchen towel and proof until doubled in size, again in a warmish and draft free place. This took about 8 hours.

Heat the oven to 190C and bake the panettone about 10 minutes, then reduce the temperature to 160C or so, and bake until well baked. Panettone tends to burn on top, so keep an extra parchment paper on hand – if needed, just wet it and cover the panettone with it.

Take the panettone out and let cool enough that you can touch it without burning.

Now comes the weirdest part: one way or another, you should be able to hang your panettone upside down for the next 12 hours or so. The best way to do this is to wash well 2 knitting needles for each panettone, push them through it and place on top of a bowl (or on top of four glasses turned upside down, like I did). Be careful if using metal needles like I did: they get very hot!

2014-12-06 20.25.04

Some recipes said you could eat your panettone right away, others instructed to wait a couple of days. Well, I don’t care, I the most certainly will try the first one tomorrow!

Sweet dreams :)

7.12: And here's the final product:

IMG_5166

 

Friday, December 5, 2014

Day 5: Hallongrottor - the Best Cookies in the World

2014-12-05 20.09.09When I was a kid, my grandmother used to bake cookies that we called the Best-in-the-world. They were small round sandwich cookies with raspberry jam in the middle. Unfortunately, I don’t have the recipe anymore.

But maybe I wouldn’t need it, either: looking at my family devouring the first batch of Hallongrottor yesterday, I could see me and my cousins devouring the Best-in-the-world-cookies. The first batch was gone before I even found the tin box in which I had planned to store them. But luckily, they are extremely easy and quick to do! So today, I baked again ;)

Here’s a revised recipe from last year. This time, I added egg yolk in the dough, to make it more manageable. (I used to add a bit of water if needed, but it's not a very good idea: the cookies tend to spread more in the oven...)

For 25-30 hallongrottor you need




  • 225g butter or vegan margarine

  • 85g sugar

  • 250g all-purpose flour

  • 60g marsánpulver (or other vanilla pudding powder)

  • 1 ⅕ tsp baking powder

  • 1 pinch of salt (only if using non-salt butter)

  • 2 egg yolks

  • raspberry jam


Preheat your oven to 180 C. Cut the butter into small cubes and place in a baking bowl. In another bowl, combine sugar, flour, vanilla pudding powder, baking powder, and salt (if using). Work the mixture with your fingertips until fine and crumbly, then add egg yolks and work the dough until it's easy to form it into a ball.


Divide the dough into 25-30 parts (mine weighed 20g). Roll each of them into a small ball and place on an oven tray covered with parchment paper. Press a hole in the middle of each cookie, using your finger, and fill the holes with raspberry jam. Bake about 12-15 minutes, or until well cooked but not brown yet.


Store them very soon after baking if you want to have any left for Christmas!

Thursday, December 4, 2014

Day 4: Gingerbread with Rye Flour

Piparit14For today, my son had scheduled Finnish gingerbread cookies. Which I did bake, following the recipe I posted last year.

Well, almost. I made a small change: I used a mixture of rye flour and all-purpose flour, inspired by Biberli cookies from yesterday.

This resulted in the most perfect gingerbread dough ever! Well, apart from the greenish colour before baking the cookies, that is. But otherwise, the dough was smooth and very easy to roll even very thin – and thin is what I like my gingerbread cookies to be! My very biased jury said these were the best gingerbread cookies ever.

So here is the recipe from last year, re-posted, but with different flour. At least my rye flour was thirstier than other flour types, so I used slightly less flour.

This is what you need (it’s impossible to say how many you’ll get, it depends on the size of the cookie cutters you’re using - but one portion gives you one big plate full of them):




  • 50ml molasses

  • 125g butter

  • 90g sugar

  • 0,5 tsp cinnamon, ground ginger, cloves, bitter orange peel, each

  • 0,2 tsp cardamom and allspice, each

  • 1 egg

  • 450ml flour (more or less 280g) - half rye, half all-purpose

  • 0,3 tsp salt

  • 1 tsp baking soda


Place butter, sugar, molasses, and the spices in a pan. Warm until the butter has melted, then let cool to room temperature. In the meantime, measure the flour, salt, and baking soda in a baking bowl. When the butter-spice-mixture is cool enough, beat it until pale brown, add the egg, and beat one minute more. (I do this using a twirl whisk.)


Pour the mixture into the flour mixture and stir well. Note that the dough is quite soft at this point, but do NOT add more flour. Now, place the dough in the fridge for a couple of hours, or preferably overnight. This will allow for the flavours to develop to their full potential!


When your dough is ready, roll it out on a flour dusted work surface until about 2-3 mm thin. Cut out cookies, using cookie cutters of different shapes. Place your cookies on an oven tray covered with parchment paper.  Bake in a preheated oven (200 C) 6-8 minutes. Note that size matters here: on each tray, place cookies of more or less the same size - otherwise the small ones will burn before the big ones are done.


I suggest you make at least double portion of this dough and keep it in the fridge. It keeps easily one week, and then you can bake cookies whenever you feel like it - and enjoy that heavenly smell of freshly baked gingerbread!

Wednesday, December 3, 2014

Day 3: Biberli, or Swiss Gingerbread with Almond-Kirsch-Filling

Biberli2Biberli is what happened to me when I let the kids decide what I should bake next. They chose a recipe I had never heard of before, with no picture, and with a name that didn't tell me anything at all: Biber is German for beaver, -li is a suffix that the Swiss love to add after all possible words, it seems.

But good that they did, because these gingerbread cookies are absolutely gorgeous, with a soft almond-kirsch-filling wrapped in crispy, spicy gingerbread crust.

And after a quick look at the best dictionary in the world I found out that the name for this type of cookies the most likely comes from a dialectal variant of Pimpernuss, or bladdernut (!), that was used as a spice in Biberli. Speaking of which: instead of the spices in this recipe, you can use a ready-made gingerbread spice mix.

This is what you need for the dough:

  • 120g honey

  • 50g sugar

  • 30g butter

  • 1 tsp cinnamon

  • ½ tsp ground cloves

  • 1 pinch of the following: dried orange peel, ginger, cardamom, coriander

  • 1 pinch of salt

  • 100g all-purpose flour

  • 100g rye flour

  • 1 tsp potash (or baking soda)

  • 1 Tbsp kirsch or similar


..and for the filling:

  • 1 smallish egg white

  • 100g ground almond

  • 40g sugar

  • 1 Tbsp kirsch or similar


…and for the wash:

  • a bit of milk

  • 1 Tbsp honey

  • 1 tsp cornstarch

  • 1 Tbsp water


Combine honey, sugar, spices and butter in a saucepan. Heat until sugar has melted, then remove from heat. Dissolve potash in the kirsch. Place flour in a baking bowl. Add salt and the honey mixture and the potash-kirsch-mixture. Work the dough with your hands until it’s smooth. The dough looks and smells awful – don’t be scared, that’s normal :) The greenish colour comes from the rye and the weird smell from the potash (baking soda doesn’t smell that strong!). Let the dough rest 2-3 hours in the fridge.

For the filling, just combine all ingredients until you get a somewhat firm paste.

Roll the dough into a long rectangle about 8 cm wide. Work the filling into a long roll – it should be as long as the dough rectangle is. Place the filling roll in the middle of the dough. Pull both sides gently towards the middle, so that the filling stays fully covered. Press the seam together and turn the roll so that the seam faces down (see the picture below).

Now, use a sharp knife to cut small triangles out of the roll, like when baking cinnamon rolls the Finnish way. Brush the Biberli with milk and bake in a preheated oven (175 C) about 15 minutes, or until they start to gain some colour. In the meantime, prepare the liquid for the second wash: combine cornstarch, cold water and honey in a small saucepan. Bring to the boil and remove from heat. Once the cookies come out of the oven, brush them with the warm honey mixture. Let cool completely, then either enjoy – or store!

I’ve noticed that this kind of Lebkuchen (or gingerbread) tastes a bit bitter on the first day. Miraculously, the taste improves a lot in one or two days!

Biberli1

 

 

 

Tuesday, December 2, 2014

Day 2: Candied Orange Peel

OrangePeel1I admit – I’ve made a lot of mistakes in my life! But nothing as serious as having thrown away the best part of all the oranges I’ve ever eaten – the peel, that is. Even the not-so-tasty oranges have a luxuriously delicious peel! Of course, I’m talking about organic, non-treated oranges; the peel of waxed oranges is not edible (correct me if I'm wrong!).

So, instead of throwing away orange peels, dry them and use for baking. Or, even better, try this recipe of candied orange peel! I found it in Rena Salamans great book "The Greek Cook".

It’s amazing how during the 36 hours of making the candied orange peel the whole house is filled with irresistible orange smell. (But don’t worry, the active time of making them is actually quite short!) Only that smell makes the work worthwhile. In addition, candied orange peels are a real eye-catcher and they taste heavenly!

Here the time-planning is crucial: for me, it made sense to soak the peels late in the afternoon, let them stand the required 24 hours, do the cooking part early in the evening, and let stand until this morning.

For about 36 pieces you need:

  • 4 organic oranges

  • 400g sugar

  • the juice of one small lemon or half a big one

  • …and some strong yarn & a needle


Peel the oranges in a way that you get long stripes about two to three centimeters wide. Roll the stripes tight and secure them by binding 10-12 together in a “bracelet” (see the picture above) with needle and yarn.

Place the “bracelets” in a bowl filled with cold water. Let stand about 24 hours. Change the water 3-4 times. This is done to reduce the bitterness of the orange peels.

Drain the peels and place in a big saucepan. Cover with 2 liters of cold water. Bring to the boil and let simmer for 15 minutes. Drain the peels and repeat the procedure with fresh water. This time, let the peels simmer about 10 minutes or until they start to soften. Be careful not to overcook them.

Drain the peels again. In the meantime, prepare the syrup: place sugar and water in a heavy pan. Warm until the sugar has dissolved (add some more water if necessary), then let boil over a low heat until the mixture turns into thick syrup, or about 5 minutes. Be careful, it burns easily! Now, remove the yarn and place the peels into the syrup. Let simmer over a low heat about 5 minutes. Let cool and stand overnight.

Next morning, bring the mixture once more to the boil. Let simmer 5 more minutes, add the lemon juice, stir, remove from heat, and let cool completely. Place the peels and the syrup in well-washed jars.

If you sterilize the jars, the candied orange peels should keep easily for two years. I’m not going to try to find out if that’s true, though… Just happy if they make it until Christmas!

P.S. Don't throw the syrup away: it can be used in baking, or for flavouring of pancakes, yoghurt, and so on.

OrangePeel2

 

Monday, December 1, 2014

Day 1: Stollen

StollenWhen baking for a day still quite far away in the future, it’s important to make sure that what you’re baking will still be good on the D-day.

So what could be a better candidate than a Christmas cake that was traditionally baked in Germany around the Christmas time - and eaten until Easter? This Christmas wonder is called Stollen - and that's what I decided to start with.

Most Stollen recipes involve a lot of yeast. I’m not a big fan of yeast, and I prefer baking with sourdough starter instead. So I tried to bake my Stollen with sourdough starter, with only a tiny bit of yeast as a guarantee it would ferment properly (maybe it’s the low temperature in my house, but my starter hasn’t worked perfectly lately).

It’s impossible to say whether the recipe I’ll share withyou is a good one. I will only be able to tell in about two week's time - that's how long it takes for this cake to develop its taste fully. But judging by the taste of the dough and the smell of the Stollen, I’m very optimistic!

For two smallish Stollen (a bit less than 450g each) you need:

  • 120g sourdough starter, refreshed about 6-8 hours before with milk

  • about 2g fresh yeast

  • 100ml milk

  • 2 Tbsp rum

  • 1 egg

  • 80g butter, melted

  • grated zest of 1 organic lemon

  • 50g sugar

  • a pinch of salt

  • a pinch of cardamom

  • a pinch of cinnamon

  • 140g sultanas

  • 3 Tbsp candied lemon peel

  • 40g ground almond

  • 250g all-purpose flour



  • plus about 70g melted butter and 4 tsp confectioner’s sugar on top


This is how you make it:

Combine lukewarm milk and yeast in a baking bowl. Add starter, egg, melted butter, sugar, salt (if using non-salted butter, consider using two pinches), lemon peel, and rum. Then add almond, sultanas, candied lemon peel, cinnamon, cardamom, and lastly, the flour. Knead until the dough is smooth, about 5 minutes, and add more flour if needed. Cover with a damp kitchen towel and let ferment in a draft-free place overnight.

In the morning, punch the dough on a baking surface and divide in two. Take one part and using your hands, form a rectangle. Fold the rectangle in the middle to form a Stollen, and place it on a baking tray covered with a parchment paper. Repeat with the second half of the dough. Make sure that no sultanas are on the surface - if there are, push them gently inside the Stollen; sultanas tend to burn very easily! Proof about one hour. Preheat the oven to 180 C and bake the cakes until they are golden brown on top and also well baked inside.

Once out of the oven, brush each Stollen with about 35g melted butter and sprinkle 2 tsp confectioner’s sugar on each. Let cool completely. Then wrap the cakes into a tin foil, place in a plastic bag and store in a cool place (not the fridge, though, it’s too cold and humid) for at least two weeks.

I’ll try to wait two weeks before tasting my first Stollen. I’ll keep you posted about the results!

P.S. Obviously, this recipe was no consolation for the kids - so we had some mousse au chocolat as a dessert instead! But hope they'll have better luck tomorrow.